HAPPY CAMPER, Tom Frost, bivouac, Dihedral Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California.  Second ascent by Robbins and Frost, 2 through 6 June 1964, Tom Frost Collection.

This hammock bivouac photograph on the Dihedral Wall helps Tom remember how much he loved climbing El Capitan, and how much he enjoyed this route.  Clean as a whistle, the Dihedral Wall sends endless corners up through facets of massive El Capitan granite.  One crack to follow.  Always tipping, keeping the aspirant attentive and appreciative.  It was an aid climber’s dream.  And that was him.

    Royal had developed a strategy to use the recently developed jumar ascenders for bringing up the heavy haul bag.  “This system made hauling vastly easier, and the speed of an ascent could be increased with the second man jumaring a pitch at the same time the leader hauled the bag.  These would become the chosen methods for thousands of big-wall climbers to come.”  (Ament, Spirit of the Age)  So, in June 1964 they approached El Capitan with the intention of testing this system while making a two man ascent of El Cap and the second ascent of the Dihedral Wall.  The system worked well and as Tom puts it the route was spectacular.

    A bonus feature of this climb is the opportunity for hammock bivouacs.  Here, on their second night on the wall, Tom's European style net hammock is suspended below Royal.  A lightweight duvet and cagoule ensure a sound and comfortable night’s sleep.  

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